1. Basic knowledge of woven garment processing
Commonly used clothing woven fabrics are looms in the form of picking, and the yarns are formed by interlacing the warp and weft directions. The arrangement generally includes three types of plain weave, twill weave and satin weave, and their altered arrangements (also because of modern With the use of shuttleless looms, the weaving of this type of fabric does not require picking, but the fabric still belongs to the woven category). Classified from the composition of the composition, including cotton fabrics, silk fabrics, wool fabrics, linen fabrics, chemical fiber fabrics, and their blended and interlaced fabrics, etc., the use of woven fabrics in clothing is at a constant level in terms of variety and quantity. leading position. Because of the differences in styles, crafts, styles and other factors, woven garments have great differences in processing procedures and techniques. Jiangmen Customs will introduce you to the basic knowledge of woven garment processing in the company.
(1) Production process of woven garments
Noodles and accessories enter the factory for inspection → skill preparation → cutting → sewing → buttonhole sewing → ironing → tailoring inspection → packaging → storage or shipment.
After the fabric enters the factory, the quantity count and the appearance and connotation quality inspection shall be carried out, and the talents that meet the production requirements shall be put into production. Before mass production, the first step is to prepare skills, including the drafting of the process sheet, the model and the manufacture of samples. The samples can be entered into the next production process after the customer's approval. The fabric is cut and sewn into semi-finished products. After some woven fabrics are made into semi-finished products, they must be finished according to special process requirements, such as tailor washing, tailor sand washing, wrinkle effect processing, etc., and finally pass the buttonhole Auxiliary process of button sewing and ironing process, and then package and put into storage after inspection.
(2) Purpose and requirements of fabric inspection
Controlling the quality of fabrics is an important part of controlling the quality. Through the inspection and measurement of incoming fabrics, the rate of authentic clothing can be effectively improved. Fabric inspection includes two aspects: appearance quality and connotation quality. In terms of appearance, first check whether the fabric has damage, stains, weaving defects, color difference, etc. The sand washed fabric should also pay attention to whether there are sand washing defects such as sand channels, dead fold marks, and cracks. Defects that affect the appearance must be marked out during inspection, and avoid using them when making a choice.
The connotative quality of the fabric mainly includes three items: shrinkage, color fastness and gram weight (mmi, ounce). When sampling for inspection, samples of different varieties and colors from different manufacturers should be cut for testing to ensure the accuracy of the data.
At the same time, the auxiliary materials entering the factory should be inspected, such as the shrinkage rate of the elastic band, the fastness of the adhesive interlining, the smoothness of the zipper, etc., and the auxiliary materials that cannot meet the requirements will not be put into production.
(3) The primary content of skill preparation
Before mass production, skilled personnel must do the preparatory work for skills before mass production. Skill preparation includes three contents: craft sheet, model formulation and prototype manufacturing. Skill preparation is an important method to ensure the smooth progress of mass production and the final product to meet customer requirements.
The craft list is a guiding document in garment processing. It sets detailed requirements for garment standards, sewing, ironing, packaging, etc. It also clarifies details such as the allocation of garment accessories and stitch density. All procedures in garment processing should strictly refer to the requirements of the craft sheet.
The prototype manufacturing requires precise dimensions and complete standards. The contour lines of the relevant parts are precisely matched. The model shall be marked with the clothing style number, position, standard, thread direction and quality requirements, and the composite stamp of the model shall be stamped at the relevant splicing place.
After completing the process sheet and model drafting operations, small batch samples can be produced, the discrepancies can be corrected in time according to the customer and process requirements, and the process difficulties can be tackled so that the mass flow operation can proceed smoothly. After the sample has passed the client's approval and signature, it becomes one of the important inspection basis.
(4) Cutting process requirements
Before cutting, make a layout drawing based on the template. "Complete, reasonable and economical" is the basic principle of layout. The primary process requirements in the cutting process are as follows:
(1) Check the quantity when dragging the material, and pay attention to avoiding defects.
(2) Different batches of dyed or sand-washed fabrics should be cut in batches to prevent color difference on the same garment. The color difference should be done for the color difference phenomenon in a surface.
(3) Pay attention to the straightness of the fabric and whether the direction of the thread meets the requirements of the process. Regarding the pile fabrics (such as velvet, velvet, corduroy, etc.), the layout should not be reversed, otherwise it will affect the color of the clothing. The depth.
(4) Regarding striped fabrics, when dragging materials, attention should be paid to the alignment and positioning of the strips in each layer to ensure the connection and symmetry of the strips on the garment.
(5) The cutting requires precise cutting and smooth lines. The paving type should not be too thick, and the base layer of the fabric is not biased.
(6) Cut the knife edge according to the template registration mark.
(7) When using tapered hole marking, care should be taken not to affect the appearance of the tailor. After cutting, count the quantity and inspect the pieces, and bundle them according to the clothing standards, and attach a ticket to indicate the number, location, standard, etc.
(5) Sewing is the central process of garment processing. Garment sewing can be divided into machine sewing and hand sewing according to style and craft style. The assembly process is implemented in the sewing process.
Fusible interlining is widely used in garment processing. Its function is to simplify the sewing process, make the quality of the garment uniform, prevent deformation and wrinkling, and play a certain role in the shape of the garment. Its varieties are mostly non-woven fabrics, woven fabrics, and knitted fabrics. The use of fusible interlinings should be selected according to clothing fabrics and parts, and the glue time, temperature and pressure should be accurately controlled, so as to achieve better results. .
The sewing of clothing is required to be neat and beautiful, and it should not show asymmetric, twisted, leaked, or staggered seams. In the sewing of striped fabrics, attention should be paid to the smooth connection of the pictures at the splicing area and the symmetry of the strips. The stitches are required to be uniform and straight, and the arcs are round and smooth; the tangent of the garment surface should be flat without wrinkles or small folds; the stitches are in good condition, and there are no broken threads, emergence, drawn threads, etc.; important parts such as collar tips must not be connected.